← back to Kali Ore

Medicine Lake Highlands & Lava Beds

Slow drive from McCloud, mountain camp, full day at Lava Beds

2 days 6,500–7,300 ft No cell service 4x4 useful, not required

The slow drive from McCloud (after lunch)

Route: Hwy 89 east from McCloud ~16 mi → left on FS 15 / Harris Spring Rd ~4.4 mi → right on FS 49 / Medicine Lake Rd ~27.5 mi to Medicine Lake. Mostly paved or good gravel.

Worthwhile stops along the way:

Where to camp at Medicine Lake

The Medicine Lake Recreation Area has 5 small campgrounds, all first-come-first-served, $13–14/night, open mid-June through October. Sheltered under mature lodgepole pines on the lake's south shore at 6,770 ft.

A.H. Hogue Campground local favorite

The quieter loop, closer to the swimming beach, less RV-heavy than the main Medicine CG. See trip notes at My Backyard & Beyond — A.H. Hogue.

Medicine Campground

Biggest, busiest. Sites 024 and 040 are the lakefront picks if you can snag them. Forum tip: weekdays are much quieter than weekends.

Bullseye Lake CG overflow / quiet

5 sites, free, vault toilet only, ~1 mi off the main road. Tiny lake. Where locals go when the main loop is full.

Hemlock · Headquarters · Schonchin Springs

Smaller, off the lake itself. Schonchin Springs is most primitive — no water. Trade lake views for solitude.

Dispersed camping

Legal in Modoc NF along FS 49 and spur roads. Butte and Antelope Creek areas are mentioned as locals' favorites. See Butte Valley Chamber — camping.

Wildcard: Little Mt. Hoffman Lookout if you can get it

Rentable USFS fire lookout at 7,309 ft with 360° views of Shasta, Lassen, McLoughlin, Trinity Alps, Marbles. Often booked far ahead, but call McCloud RD 530-964-2184 for cancellations. Last 4 mi rough dirt — your 4x4 will be fine. Details: Shasta-Trinity NF — Little Mt. Hoffman Lookout.

Local heads-up: Blue-green algae blooms have been reported in Medicine Lake — fine for boating but check the algae sign at the beach before swimming or letting dogs in. No cell service anywhere up there. No services past Bartle — top off fuel and water in McCloud.

Don't-miss spots in the Highlands

1. Glass Mountain must do

The big obsidian and dacite flow (USGS) on the east caldera rim, erupted ~900 years ago. Access from FS 43N99 off FS 97. Park at the small lot and walk in on the rough path.

The surface is literal volcanic glass — extremely sharp. Boots mandatory, no sandals, no dogs. Easy 1–2 mi wander. Best in early morning or late afternoon when the obsidian throws light like black mirrors. Also see trip report — Glass Mountain.

2. Little Glass Mountain

Smaller, less-visited obsidian/pumice dome (Klamath NF) on the southwest side. White pumice contrasts with black obsidian. Locals call it the hidden-gem version. See Bartell's Backroads — Little Glass Mountain.

3. Burnt Lava Flow & High Hole Crater

A 37 km² jet-black lava flow only ~2,750 years old, erupted from High Hole Crater (Smithsonian Global Volcanism), with islands of forest ("kipukas") inside. Pull-offs along FS 49 south and FS 43N11 let you walk onto the flow itself. Surreal.

4. Giant Crater & lava tube area

On FS 43N11 ~2 mi off FS 49. Spatter cones and the Giant Crater lava tube system — partially collapsed but extends ~18 mi, one of the longest tube systems known. You can poke into open sections without a permit (unlike Lava Beds NM). Background: USFS Highlands Visitor Guide.

5. Little Mt. Hoffman summit sunset

Even if you don't stay in the lookout, drive or walk up at sunset. Forum consensus: the best single viewpoint in the whole region — Shasta, Lassen, McLoughlin, Trinity Alps, Marbles, the Tule Lake basin. 6.2 mi RT from Headquarters CG if walking, ~666 ft gain. Trail and access info.

6. Medicine Lake swim beach

Sandy, shallow, surprisingly warm in afternoon. Check the algae status before going in.

7. Schonchin Lava Flow

On the way north toward Lava Beds, another big driveable flow. Easy side road.

Lava Beds day (next day)

Start at the Lava Beds NM visitor center. Free cave permit is required — they screen for white-nose syndrome, so don't wear gear (boots, clothes) that's been in caves elsewhere. Pick up the cave difficulty map.

Caves not to miss

Full list: NPS — caving at Lava Beds and Discover Klamath — top 10 caves.

Above ground

Add-on: Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge

12-mile gravel auto-tour loop right next to Lava Beds. Huge migratory bird numbers, pelicans, raptors. The East Wildlife Overlook connects to Lava Beds' northeast road. Stop at the visitor center — it also covers the WWII Japanese-American incarceration camp history. Free, sunrise to sunset.

Bring for caves: headlamp (+ backup), warm layer (caves are ~55°F year-round), gloves, sturdy shoes, kneepads if you're going to crawl. The visitor center rents helmets and flashlights if you're missing gear.

Suggested 2-day shape

  1. Lunch in McCloud, top off fuel and water. Slow drive up the byway with the USFS geo-tour PDF. Stop at Glass Mountain late afternoon. Camp at A.H. Hogue (or Bullseye if full). Sunset drive up Little Mt. Hoffman.
  2. Morning: Burnt Lava Flow + Giant Crater on your way north out of the Highlands. Afternoon at Lava Beds — visitor center for permit, then 3–4 caves (Mushpot → Golden Dome → Sentinel → Valentine) + Schonchin Butte at sunset. Camp at Indian Well CG inside the monument, or drive on toward Tule Lake / Klamath Falls.

Quick reference numbers